Darn It!

Well, it didn't take me too long to blow it, did it?!  I wish I could be more regimented, but I guess my artistic side doesn't believe in schedules ;-)

Not to worry, I'll just pick up here and keep on going, still trying to get up as many posts as possible this month.

Today's post is about the importance of establishing good habits (now, now, those who can't do themselves, teach!)  They say it takes about 3 weeks of sticking to something every day for it to become a habit.  For someone who just blew making blogging into a habit, I already see some of the ways in which I went wrong.  First, I probably should have established a certain time at which to blog everyday.  Then, second, I probably should have set a reminder on my calendar or alarm clock or something that would remind me.  And, third, I probably should have better defined for myself the pros that would outweigh the cons of blogging (yes, it's difficult coming up with topics and putting thoughts to paper, but the upside is that, hopefully, I'm sharing useful, wanted information and making a connection with readers and am memorializing for myself the actions I've taken towards building my craft and business).

So, do as I say and hopefully as I am going to be doing!

More Tie-Dye!

Ah, I'm getting obsessed :-)  Mainly because it's really been easy.  The key is to stay as close to the kitchen sink as possible and to rinse and wipe stuff as soon as you see any drips.

If you're just not in the mood to create for yourself, then just check out our Etsy shop to place a custom order :-)

Stay tuned, more products and posts coming!

Tip 6 -- Changing Colors

If you are using multiple colors when crocheting an item, you're going to want to make the color changes as seamless as possible.  The easiest and best way to do that is to finish the last part of a stitch with the new color.  For example, if you're doing single crochet stitches and working with Color A, you'd insert your hook, yarn over, pull up a loop of Color A, then yarn over with Color B, and pull through a loop of Color B.  You're now ready to work in Color B.

Tip 5 -- The Foundation Chain

I always say that the first row is the hardest because you have to work into the foundation chains.  The best, but hardest, way is to insert your hook in between the two top loops and the one bottom loop of the chain.  This method gives the smoothest look to the bottom of your work.  If the look of the bottom isn't a factor, then go ahead and just insert your hook into any one or two loops of the chain in making your first row.

If you find that you're a tight crocheter, then working the foundation chains for the first row can really be difficult.  So, try using a size or two larger hook than called for in the pattern to chain the foundation and then switch back to the right-sized hook for the first row.

Tip 4 -- WPI

I had never heard of "wpi" before but read about it today in my "Talking Crochet" free email newsletter (you can subscribe by going to http://www.crochetmagazine.com/).  It's an abbreviation for "wraps per inch."  Literally, you determine wpi by wrapping yarn around a ruler for one inch, with each strand of yarn being wrapped parallel and next to each other.  Be careful not to wrap the strands of yarn too close to each other or too tightly, no twisting or crossing.

Once you've done the wrapping, you count the number of parallel strands within one inch.  Usually, there will be about 16 wpi for fingering weight yarn and about 8 wpi for bulky yarn.  This technique is one way of determining the density or weight of a yarn and also of ensuring that different yarns can be substituted for each other in a pattern.

Tip 3 -- Standard Yarn Weight System

Speaking of the Standard Yarn Weight System, I figured I'd better go a little more in depth about it.  A number of manufacturers of yarn have adopted the system to help knitters and crocheters know what size hook to use with various yarns and approximately how many stitches will result within a 4-inch span.  Often, these manufacturers will put the appropriate symbol from the chart below on the label of a skein of yarn to tell you its weight (i.e., the thickness of the yarn).

No matter what is marked on the yarn skein label, though, you should still work up a "gauge swatch" in order to see what your style of crocheting (e.g., are you a loose crocheter or do you make your stitches tightly?) yields.

Tip 2 -- Yarn Weight

It's tempting to just start mixing different weights of yarns in a project, and often you can get great results this way if it's a project in which gauge and size aren't important, like a scarf or a blanket, where a freeform style can work.  But, when you're trying to make an item where the size consistency of your stitches is important, like a sweater or hat, you'll want to be sure to use the same weights of yarn. 

For example, I'm working on a baby hat right now for which I found Lionbrand's cashmere blend yarn in a beautiful red color for the background, but I want to do a pattern in white, and, of course, the yarn doesn't come in white.  So, what to do?  The cashmere blend is considered a medium worsted weight, a "number 4" on the standard yarn weight system, so I need to find a white yarn that is also a number 4.  The weight of the yarn, in many ways, is more important than the fiber content of the yarn because it is the weight, along with hook size, that most directly affects the size of your stitches.  But, pay attention to the fiber content as well because that can affect the washing instructions of your finished item and how it holds up over time.